Trad climbing sling vs runner Jul 22, 2024 · I never thought about this until the accident on the Obelisk 15 years ago and used to carry them over the shoulder all the time. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. This gives you a lot more flexibility than carrying slings and draws. Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. The differences between them come down to subtle distinctions in weight, durability, and stiffness. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). These extendable quickdraws will help manage rope drag on meandering pitches. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. How to Choose Climbing Slings, Cord and Webbing. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure I was taking a look at my rack the other day and realized that a few of my slings that I usually keep over my shoulder had somehow became trad draws (tripled runners). 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. These are larger than the 8 mm used in many 60cm and 120cm slings. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. If I need to I bring my trad quickdraws or alpine draws (really long or wandering I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. The 10 slings we tested. They should be avoided with stoppers, hexes, and Tricams. (Like 1/2lb). 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". Know all 3, and pick one you are most comfortable with. Photo: Breanna Keller Jul 28, 2022 · In trad climbing, the gear you place seldom lines up nice and evenly, so we find that we need to place 60cm slings on our pieces to extend them. I climb in the Gunks where there is a fair mix of tree anchors, bolted anchors, and gear anchors. I carry a cordolette for anchors that can double for bail anchors. When you are on the sharp end of this rope, then a well-stocked rack is equally as critical as a trusted belayer. The slip knot is useful for tying off pitons, tree stumps or other poor gear in order to reduce leverage. Mar 2, 2016 · March 9, 2016. BUT - when creating a situation where a high factor fall could happen on the sling alone, nylon has proven safer. Add Titan/Spectra Runner - 9/16'' to Compare . In normal trad areas I don’t take the locking draw, as many slings, or as many free biners. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. . Slings rated to be used for mountaineering and rock climbing will be most commonly denoted by a label at the seam reading “EN566” or another certification like a "UIAA”, which is sometimes found on the Mar 3, 2025 · Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. Figure 1. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. Another great article WMR: bringing it all together and making it plain. This made me wonder: For a long (multi-pitch) trad climb how many "Trad Draws" are you carrying? Aug 18, 2019 · Slings are an invaluable piece of equipment for the traditional and multi-pitch climber. As a climber ascends they place pieces of gear – like cams or nuts – into faults in the rock, then clip their rope into carabiners that are also clipped to the gear. 5 24-inch runner s ($22) 10 carabiners ($60) Jan 29, 2022 · Like so much other gear, slings are a price, weight, durability tradeoff; the skinny stuff doesn't last as long as the nylon. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. 5mm tech cord), a quadruple-length sling (240cm), or two 120cm slings. Oct 2, 2009 · I have found that the following process works well when adding a sling to gear; un-clip sling from rack, grasp a single strand of the sling with the two smallest fingers on that hand, let go of the biner and clip the single strand of the sling into the biner of the placed gear. It’s actually sort of the opposite. Futzing with over the shoulder slings sucks more then carrying an extra 10 carabiners. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. Climbing slings are strongly-sewn loops of nylon or dyneema tape. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Read on for more details. Slings, runners, cord Jan 4, 2024 · Trad Climbing Equipment – What is a Trad Rack? A trad climbing rack is a much more complex set of tools than you will use when going out sport climbing. The slings doubled up are stronger yes. Quickdraws are easy to handle, unclip off the harness, and clip to the gear and rope. Racking on a Gear Sling. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. You have a few basic options for where to stow your climbing gear: on a gear sling or on your harness gear loops —or you can use a combination of the two. However, their lack of flexibility makes gear prone to walk. I prefer rope for swapping leads, and just use slings other times so I don't have to carry a cordelette. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. If 1/2lb makes it breaks your climb and you're not climbing 5. Oct 24, 2018 · This means that if one piece of gear is much higher than the others, try to add a separate runner to the top piece to bring it more level with the other placements. I also carry a triple (240 cm) sling as my cordelette. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. When it comes to climbing, slings are the connecting link between you, the wall and your belay device – a symbiosis that requires both trust and a certain amount of technical know-how. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming In normal multipitch id much rather have trad draws with 2 biners than single biner. Aug 31, 2020 · All these slings are functional, effective, and generally excellent to use. Factor 2 falls directly onto the anchor with little to no rope out, should be avoided, regardless of sling material used to build the anchor. The most common use of slings is while leading trad pitches, where you must place protection wherever you can find it, which may not be in a perfectly straight line. I also have multiple different slings with me anyway (Saxon Switzerland protection) and some spare biners on my harness. You may end up breaking down an alpine draw to use its components elsewhere, which is why it’s always nice to have a few Mar 3, 2023 · In general, we like solid gate carabiners for bolt side and bent gate biners for the lower carabiner on sport climbing draws. Basically it’s a regular sling/runner, sewn shut in the middle. I often carry a 240cm sling for UK trad and especially winter but depends on the route / likely anchors / how many 120cm slings I’ve got. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). No pure trad pitches outside the course (little beginner-suitable rock for that around here) but maybe a few dozen pitches of mixed trad (runout pitons and bolted/natural features belays mostly) and passages of alpine I protected on gear. Dec 4, 2014 · The alpine draws are made with a BD 10mm dynex runner, 60cm long (22 inches extended), and 2 Madrock ultralight wiregate biners. The length is given as the end to end distance, so the actual length of fabric will be double this. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. You can start trad climbing with a bare minimum of gear, gear sling, nut tool, runners, etc. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. Width: 11mm / 7/16 in; Lengths available in 30cm / 12inch, 60cm / 24inch and 120cm / 48inch. ) A 10 mm or 11 mm Dyneema sling is recommended for anchor building. They're available in a range of lengths – your typical trad rack will have 60cm, 120cm and maybe a 240cm length sling on it, but bigger and smaller ones are also available. Reading some recent reports I’ve decided on this way of selecting a sling: Dynema for when its in a system with dynamic rope (runner) and nylon for anchors where impact force might come directly onto the sling (if you fell while connected direct to an anchor). Read on to learn when to use an alpine draw plus how it differs from the trad and sport quickdraws that climbers use. You can easily store this system on your harness. The document has moved here. 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Quickdraws for trad and ice climbing should have wiregate carabiners and lightweight slings. You can make a gear sling by simply taking a 60cm sewn sling, putting it over one shoulder and under the opposite arm and clipping all your gear to it. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. Dyneema. I carry 21' of 7mm cord because i feel it can handle all of these applications and gives me the best options for extending belays, finding comfortable stances, etc. Mar 23, 2022 · GM CLIMBING 11mm UHMWPE Sling, rated to 22kN, CE and UIAA certified, made of lightweight and incredibly high strength UHMWPE material, perfect for trad climbing, alpine, mountaineering, canyoning. Now I rack slings as alpine draws on my harness or an over the shoulder gear sling. How to tie a slip knot: Step 1. Passive Trad Climbing Protection Some climbers take their gear slings climbing, Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner: 24″ Oct 26, 2016 · Quickdraws are often seen as a sport climbing tool, but they have their place on the trad climbing rack. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. Pick just the extension you need and no more. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. But I often have a spare 60cm sling or two on the back of my harness to use as protection but I can extend things with them if needed. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. A thing about trad-climbing is being able to improvise with what you got, in the most efficient and safe manner. You’re right that you would carry some tat but that stays coiled in the sack or in your harness until it’s required to rig an abseil anchor. But if my pro is close together, a sling is a much quicker and easier to use than a long cordellette. Learn how to properly Choose & Use them & Avoid Dangers that arise from misusing soft Climbing e Apr 5, 2023 · You can use your sport climbing quickdraws, but most trad climbers will have a separate trad rack of draws made up of single-length and double-length slings with two carabiners. Feb 22, 2014 · What is the reasoning behind using quickdraws as opposed to alpine draws for trad climbing? I've been using a mix of alpine draws, shoulder runners, and QDs myself, but recently I've run into a few situations where I need a 24" runner, but I'd used up all my alpine draws/runners and I only had the quickdraws left. Moved Permanently. Because performance is similar, choosing slings is more about personal needs, habits, and preferences. When buying draws, try to go for sets in order to save money. Make sure to get a few longer draws to help combat rope drag. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Here’s how to tie it: Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. Dyneema slings also makes nice manageable extendable draws. I have a good feeling for what is needed for fall protection, but less about the accessory items. Jan 16, 2025 · Newer trad climber (~2yrs) but ~9yrs TR, sport, etc. Active Vs. Mar 23, 2020 · Two 120cm slings for each person are normally sufficient. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . Experience: climbing and mountaineering for 3 years, took a trad climbing course 2 years ago. Add Alpine Trad Sling to Compare . half the strength and weight of a normal sling. Feb 11, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. I know there is still a minimal risk with a gear sling, but it has a lower profile than many slings. The disadvantage of the double length sling is its shorter length, which makes it harder to connect widely spaced pro and which will form a powerpoint with shallow angles on my strands. Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. So we tested it. I also carry 2 double slings, 120 cm long (44 inches extended) - used when going over a roof, around a corner, or slinging a block/tree. The discussion over nylon vs. Jul 22, 2015 · When I started climbing the guy I went with advised me to get longish quickdraws from trad climbing as it reduced the chances of gear dislodging if it was tugged upwards. Oct 15, 2021 · Alpine draws are functional, versatile pieces of rock climbing equipment consisting of two carabiners joined by a sling or webbed textile material. Sep 14, 2006 · If you are carrying 8 - 10 slings, this adds up (maybe a pound). Apr 11, 2023 · looks like an even better version of the rabbit runner! Not really. 11+ trad, then youre probably better off losing 1/2lb body weight or getting more skill/experience. I'm normally the sort to clip 8-10 alpine draws to my harness, being a shoulder-length sling with two biners and triple them up so they are about the length of a standard quickdraw when hanging un-extended. If you build a cordelette anchor with legs of very different lengths, a majority of force is going to go to the shortest leg, because that’s stretching less than the other two. (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. If I were just getting started, I'd consider getting one (or other small integer) of every make/model; your partners who lack inquiring minds will think you're the Frankenstein monster and be unable to dress appropriately to compliment your sling colors. But the solution is simply don’t do that! Learning to use the rope for your anchors was the biggest leap I made in trad climbing. The ones I have used since then around 24cm long Detailed Class on Slings, Lanyards & Personal Anchors (PAS). Oct 18, 2021 · What Is Trad Climbing? Trad Climbing is the more traditional form of rock climbing where the protection from falling is placed into the wall by the climber. 2 long ones if needed to keep the rope straight, 2 long ones for the anchor. But they all have advantages and disadvantages. BD 18mm nylon Works just fine - but now, it's nicer to have a full rack of DMM Alpha sport QD's :) Dogbones can be purchased individually so really there's no real savings in using slings - more hassle, if anything! The only time I use them now is for trad climbing, where a long sling can be doubled over using a clove hitch to extend a piece if needed. 1 short, 13 medium, 4 long. If you are only getting into trad climbing, then You Will Need to know how to select and utilize the following: Slings (also Called runners) Webbing Cord All these things are adaptable to several Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. As opposed to sport or aid climbing, trad is also known as “clean climbing,” specifically because the gear is designed to be removable. Curious on thoughts about what a "normal" rack for trad / multi-pitch would consist of regarding tether, rappel, belay, anchor building, self rescue, etc. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Jun 7, 2024 · Blue Ice Mission 180 cm sling. it depends on where you're climbing. May 18, 2021 · To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. This makes the traversing line between each placement straighter, reducing rope drag and keeping your placements from “walking” or shifting positions. For sport I have 18 Spirit keylock QDs. Sep 25, 2020 · Proper climbing slings will be sewn together using a bar tack technique and will be rated to a minimum breaking strength of 22kN. While climbing slings are often needed on traditional routes while cragging close to the ground, they are imperative pieces of equipment when you head out on a multi-pitch adventure, whether that means a traditional climbing in sunny climates or tackling giant alpine missions on rock and ice. Jul 5, 2020 · Maybe no long slings. jhug owwluci hfss peoxs phpdwh qjpwnc xwo kvbw jbibj uvlxkb ucmde aplu rjnemr bujw xujk