Rock climbing cam size chart. 75 would be better off being a #1.
Rock climbing cam size chart (and also add Metolius Powercam sizes #9 Easily compare different types of climbing gear! Including cams, nuts, hexes, and more! Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. Individual cams come in a huge range of sizes, from micro-sized cams that fit the tinniest 1/4”-sized fissures of rock, to 6”, 7”, even 8”-sized off-width/chimney-sized cracks. For a performance or competitive fit, we recommend downsizing half or a full size respectively. 75°, as used with our Dragons, provides the optimum balance of holding power and rang Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Tagged "size-1". Jul 4, 2012 · The intro to the Indian Creek guide book has an excellent chart listing all the cam sizes for specific widths (uses older BD cam sizes rather than new C4s, but you can convert with the chart above. 5 Moved Permanently. This is an article from Summit Post that has charts of the range of active and passive pro and how that relates to the body parts you would use to jam a crack of that size. Yellow Totem Who are they for? Totem Cams are a very specialized piece of equipment. Mid-sized cams will protect the most common sizes of cracks at moderate grades, so mid-size cams are the most important first cams to purchase if you are building a rack. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Apr 15, 2020 · The chart below outlines the Zero Friend cam sizes, ranges, and head widths. BD: big cams. Totems work well in horizontal placements. Sep 8, 2020 · The ranges and sizes of the Master Cams are as you would expect and, like the Zeros, they have only really have two sizes below regular cam sizes (00 and 0), although as the size 1 blue is 12. Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. Camalot™ C4 Sep 29, 2023 · Mid-sized cams start with fingertip sizes (e. At the heart of each iteration has been the definitive 13. Black Diamond. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. Keep in mind that climbing shoes should generally be smaller than your regular shoe size to ensure a snug fit, but not so small that they cause pain. Feel free to comment. Totem Cams are CE certified by Cete Apave Sudeurope (Notified body number 0082). "What's the equivalent?" Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. 3 size is anything the can’t get your fingers into, ‘tips size’, depending on your finger size . Apr 9, 2021 · The flexible cams is 20 per cent lighter than the originals. 80 cam ( maybe a 2. Just a note. We’re here to help you choose the best climbing cams so you can jam your way up that next crack I have a set of BD C4 cams . TripleGrip lobes improve performance and reduce walking in all rock types. 3. Climbing a desert crack when various design features may come in handy. Oct 4, 2019 · The Orange Totem (size 1. 5-2 EU sizes smaller climbing shoes and they usually offer a semi-comfortable performance fit. 4mm to 28. 5-18mm it does technically sneak in just below the smallest size regular cams of most brands. Make sure that all the comes are certified and have a listed strength rating in kilonewtons. I’ve also included a verified weight breakdown from my testing (note: I did not receive test samples of the 0. The friends column is for the Tech Friends, but the sizes are the same for the Forged Friends (1 - 4 only). Innovative spring technology gives precise, equally-tensioned trigger pull throughout the entire range, and the Kevlar trigger material is light, strong and field maintainable. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. As far as I understand the Helium Friends will be quite different. Sizing can vary slightly between brands and models, but the following rock climbing shoe size chart will give you a general guide to help you choose the correct size. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. 0 all the way up to #8. It also gets into the weight/active range trade-off if you were to, say, rack a cam versus a hex or tricam. 35) and two cams that were larger that 1. The colours are also completely different. 4 days ago · What is a rock climbing cam? In rock climbing, a cam (short for camming device), is a piece of trad climbing gear that is used to protect the climber during a fall. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. 3mm wide. A guide to the basics of crack climbing, a special type of rock climbing that ascends splitter and dihedral cracks like those found in the deserts of Utah and Colorado and other places. 10 and 2. Add Cams. Usable max = about 60% expanded (upper limit for a decent placement). 4. 75° camming angle - proven op Many people consider 10% and 60% expansion to be a reasonable usable range for cams, but these numbers may differ from cam to cam and also depend on your risk tolerance. However the X4 in the bigger sizes can get floppy making it hard to place and even harder to remove. Vendor Wild The asymmetric cam lobes give almost twice the range of conventional cams, and they are more stable than symmetric cams of the same size. I would without hesitation say the first two cams I would double would be . WC: Off-fingers to fist size. Additionally, be careful with the age of the description. 5, #2 could still be a #2, a #0. 1 or 0. This chart provides a straightforward, easy to interpret size comparison, to help you compare cam models against one another in terms of sizing and (insert massive disclaimer here about rock quality, conditions, use at your own risk, prices may vary, etc. From my experience, many of my La Sportiva shoes are between 1. 5 etc but I think it is easier to say I need a #1, #2, #3, etc but maybe they should have started a #0. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. Totems: smallest 4 sizes. 5 as a #1 and gone up from there and left all the X4 / C3 as single numbers below that but whatever they are named what Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Range 0. 25, #3 should be a #2. Feb 7, 2010 · This is the lightest cam we tested and maybe the lightest camming device currently made. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. 34 Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. The Link Cams from Omega Pacific offer the feature that may stand out above all with their trisected cam lobes that allow the cams to fit a far greater size range than any other cam on the market. Aid climbing can take you to the tops of giant big walls, and while we think these cams will work relatively well for this purpose, especially in the offset sizes, we don't see them becoming cult classics like totems or aliens. A Curve Nut 1 is about a Wallnut/Rock 2, whilst a Curve Nut 10 is between a Wallnut/Rock 9 and 10. 3mm. Smaller cams, especially in the micro sizes have less holding power, and distribute forces over a tiny area, making them more likely to break through weak or chossy rock and pull out. 25 Size (mm) Cam Comparison Chart ROCK RON . BD climbing cams come in sizes ranging from #0. I’ve organized the charts by gear manufacturer, first showing the range & distribution of ranges covered in the various sizes, and next by showing the weight of the gear in relation to the protection size covered. . When evaluating a set of cams, it can be helpful to look at what the total range of sizes the full set covers. They call it the Range Finder system. 75 cam angle; described, refined and developed by W Friends - Trad / Cams / Rock Protection. The size 1 Dragonfly is (as of 2019) the smallest certified climbing cam on the market. Apr 18, 2018 · This makes Totems very flexible, giving them 3 advantages over other cams. Apr 4, 2025 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights are everything we love about the original Camalot C4s with a weight reduction of 25%. Shop for climbing cams at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. TripleGrip lobes for increased holding power and reduced walking. Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. The 10 sizes range from 00 to 8, and sizes 7 and 8 are very light for their size. Includes how to information on finger jams, hand jams, off widths, cam sizes, and other details. 40 or 0. Black Diamond Blue #. Dec 19, 2019 · Larger size cams are generally rated to 10-14kN, capable of holding significant falls and making bomber anchors when placed correctly in high-quality stone. If you'd like to add something (the other older Metolius cams for instance), I can send you the spread sheet I used. Camalot C4. Aug 21, 2020 · This means the X4 will fit in smaller placements. I found other cam size comparison charts unsatisfactory, so I made my own in google sheets to share. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. 75 would be better off being a #1. 10 sizes: #00 - 8, sizes 7 and 8 are new and very light for their size; Slings are replaceable, and should be replaced every five years or earlier; Color-coded 11 mm Monster sling, thumb piece and trigger; Range Finder system assists you in choosing the correct size cam Apr 26, 2025 · ‘Tier S’ cams !! All I want to use! I would love if there was at least one cam that was smaller than than the 0. Comfortable is too large Painful is too tight Uncomfortable is pe NB - Totem Cams do not have passive strength, ie they cannot be placed as nuts, and they need to be placed with the cams mid-open/closed for full strength. 13. ) If it says you need lots of 1s at the creek, it probably mean wild country 1s, since creek guides usually give sizes in friends. 4 and . Check out our great prices and latest deals! Tagged "size-0-1-0-2". The trend in the climbing world has been to make gear lighter and Dragonfly Micro Cams provide versatile protection for narrow cracks and pockets. The slings are replaceable, and should be replaced every five years or earlier. 5 as those are always the sizes I'm able to place, but find myself wanting to "save them for later" due to their versatility. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. Black diamond cam sizes are not 1:1 with inches, for instance for a 3 inch crack you’d probably place a number 4. Class leading expansion range and price; Lightest standard single axle cam Other full-sized climbing cam sets include Black Diamond C4 Camalots, Black Diamond Ultralight Cams, Totem Cams, and Metolius Ultralight Master Cams. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Below . Rock Empire: Axel: 0. Black Diamond #4), ranging from 15mm to 115mm. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 75 is baggy on the fingers but you can get your hands in yet. Aid climbers can clip into one stem and weight just 2 lobes (not recommend for free climbing). The size 1 Dragonfly is our smallest certified climbing cam. For large cams, it should be from 10 to 14 kilonewtons, while the smaller cams should have the lower ratings. What size? Use our Cam Size Comparison Chart; Need advice? Contact Us; Size. g. Nov 11, 2023 · The company actually recommends going for a size that’s 2 – 3 EU sizes below your foot size, although I think 3 EU sizes might be a bit excessive for new climbers. After a couple years trad climbing, here's what I would do if I had the money to build a new rack from scratch. Instead, Metolius cover a narrower range of sizes in more pieces. Falls were taken. 34" to 1. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) Relating Gear to the Rock In the following sections I look at active pro and passive pro. They use our innovative bi-color system to ease size selection and utilize doubled UltraTape slings so you can clip in at three different lengths. The six cams in the range cover placements from 7. When the lobes are contracted, the cam is placed into the rock wall. . My Rack. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. Ultralight options help you stay extra agile on Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Weight. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. The thumb press allows cams to have an extendable sling without sacrificing strength – Dragon cams from size 1 upward, have a 14kN strength rating. The six cams cover placements from 7. This size is definitely one my favourite and most used cam sizes so it's good to have the option to use a Totem cam of this size in placements where the Totems outperform conventional cams (like slippery limestone breaks). 75 and 1 followed by 2 and . Search Sep 29, 2023 · Mid-sized cams start with fingertip sizes (e. Title: Cam Size Comparison Version 2. 5 cam Feb 25, 2015 · Sizes. The totems add confidence in small cracks and pockets. Cams are considered active protection because the cam lobes expand and contract when the thumb trigger is pulled. General Rule of Thumb If you are unable to try our climbing shoes on in-person, we generally recommend staying true to your US street shoe size for comfort. Moved Permanently. There is an excellent review of Totem Cams on Andy Kirkpatrick's website. The same camming angle of 13. Size ranges are in mm; each row represents 1 mm so the visual representation is approximate, but it can give you a good view of size overlaps across manufacturers. We were initially skeptical that these lightweight climbing cams wouldn't hold up as well as their predecessors, but after a couple of years of use at this point, they've held many falls, been up quite a few large walls, and are in just as good a shape as when we bought them. 5 is a size where you could jam your fingers in and get a good lock. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. Rock Climbing Shoe Size Chart. Well, trad climbing is your answer! Unlike the early days, modern trad climbers have access to gear such as spring-loaded camming devices, commonly known as cams. They do not walk in the cracks; well very little. 3 to 4, some C3s, and a blue X4 (always forget the number) in addition to tricams and nuts. Usable is 10% to 60% of the max range, unless a manufacturer publishes a different number. Oct 1, 2020 · So you’ve taken up climbing, but decided that sport climbing is too soft and you’re looking for a bit more grit, pain, and fear. If you combine these with the Metolius FS Mini carabiners or CAMP Nano 22, you will have the lightest possible climbing rack. Old route descriptions could mention gear in original wild country friend sizing. So the larger pieces could be good for aid climbing but not so much free climbing. 3) and extend up to fists (e. The document has moved here. The Unfortunately neither the colours nor the sizes line up to the DMM/Wild Country axis. 50 (maybe a 0. Metolius Climbing color codes its cams to help you gauge the quality of a placement. Miniscule cams for narrow cracks and small pockets. Flex Cams feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. The WCs are basically C4s with extendable slings, but only go up to fist size. Also old descriptions could be talking about old black diamond sizes like the old 3. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. From decreasing weight to improving ergonomics, we’re always finding ways to elevate our protection. Mar 1, 2023 · The climbing cam’s strength is also essential in looking for a climbing cam. Also, since totem makes amazing cams, I bet they can make amazing carabiners that would color match the cams! Just an idea. We also have an extensive range of small and micro cams in kits or singles for Wild Country Zero Friends, Black Diamond Z4 Camalots, and FIXE Alien Revolution Cams. 5 (purple) and up. 50). Usable min = about 10% expanded (enough room to remove the piece without a struggle). 8) supplements the range by adding a size equivalent to the gold Dragon and Camalot cams. Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. I really see this start at the 0. The shark fin tooth pattern on the lobes gives excellent bite in any soft rock, from limestone to sandstone. The new shark fin tooth pattern gives optimized bite in soft rock. Jul 6, 2017 · I guess if you are talking about their numbers #1 cam would be better called a #1. ). If you save it for yourself, you can move groups of columns around. xls Author: 06 Created Date: 9/30/2010 3:06:27 PM Interactive cam comparison chart by size and by brand. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Jun 15, 2020 · John Schaefer not aid climbing as he seconds a pitch on the 8-pitch Savelli Express in Ophir while testing Z4 cams. 8mm – 28. ygrx nibafc syux ztqas xofuew cho sbl oefmoewm etlc lnlcjmie