9a climbing grade The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a (5. Side-by-side comparison of physical and technical demands between the V scale and the French scale reveal significant discrepancies. 9a: 5. For a more in depth look at all the different climbing grade systems, check out this article from Explorers Web. Our secret (or maybe not so secret anymore) tip for your hands after climbing: Apr 27, 2025 · Mixed climbing grades generally go from M1 to M12, with M13-16 in existence but not typically used. One has a grade of 5. But here's the twist-they're also subjective. I'm not looking for the answer to be exact science, I simply though it could be a fun discussion. 9. This is fun and all, but climbing is a skill sport, and great climbers are climbing the hardest grades this sport has ever seen primarily because of skill, and secondarily because of strength (thirdarily, because Adam Ondra can always find one more knee-bar) Feb 4, 2015 · Sometimes the conditions and the state of the routes can also influence the grades. nu climbs 9a after 12-13 years of climbing. 14b) for women. The world’s hardest lines stayed 9b+, while the strongest and best climbers in the world were aspiring to Jul 9, 2023 · One of the world's first 9a+ routes, "Biographie or Realisation," as it was later known, is renowned for its difficulty and almost proverbial technicality. And that if Charles's project on which he was working for some time was 9A+, no other climber could do it? Max grade on unlimitted attemps is not the same as best boulderer May 31, 2020 · To help orient and understand the systems, here’s what you need to know about climbing grades. 15d 9c ボルダーグレード. before those other numbers? Why are bouldering and sport climbing grades so different? How the heck do you figure out where to So, you would say that Nalle and Will are at the same level of bouldering because both have a max grade of 9A even when Nalle took 3 years to send the boulder. 7 or an elite climber projecting a 9a, knowing how grades work empowers you to set goals, track progress, and climb smarter. 14d YDS) is the international climbing grade standard for elite free climbing. However, you will find that most indoor rock climbing levels use the French sport climbing grades. “The route felt challenging in many different ways,” Ondra said, “and apart from being very runout (but probably safe), it has some very hard (and odd!) moves where you really need to be a very complex climber. 14d. Grade III : La majeure partie de la journée est consacrée à la partie technique. Jun 11, 2023 · Sharma on Sleeping Lion ©Ricardo Giancola. 9a to UIAA grade is XI. 15b/c 9b 5. Rock climbing grades are assigned by climbers who have completed the route, not an outside authority. Jan 28, 2022 · Australian Climbing Grades. This means that there are variations in difficulty based on personal experience and climbing style. When I first saw this I thought the YDS grades were too high. Mar 23, 2025 · Once the grade has been suggested, climbers and the community will verify the difficulty grade is accurate by climbing the route. Check out our list of the hardest boulder problems in the world for more info. 14d) for men and 8c (5. Bouldering and sport climbing are two siblings in the world of climbing. They’re all absolutely desperate. For this reason, it might be useful to understand how to convert bouldering grades into climbing grades. Aug 18, 2017 · We want to build the best climbers at Sportrock; using the circuit grading system creates an environment where climbers are more focused on mastering the climbing and not the indoor climbing grade. This climbing test should reveal how hard you should be able to climb (assuming perfect technique!). Sep 5, 2021 · 8a (5. with 9A(equal to V17) being the maximum level reached thus far. Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! About this Bouldering Grades table: This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Find out the skill level and difficulty of each grade, from 5. 14d in 12-13 years. . Apr 13, 2025 · Understanding climbing difficulty rankings is essential for safe and enjoyable progression in the sport. Consider the Climbing Style: sport climbing, traditional climbing, and bouldering can have different grading nuances. Maybe in SLC this is true I think it would be more accurate to say that the average 9a climber that uses 8a. Bouldering Grades vs Climbing Grades. Instead, simply use them as a guide to find the type of challenge you are looking for. Standards vary among climbing areas. Even once you get the gist down, the meaning behind these grades may remain a mystery! What’s with the 5. Converting climbing grades from one country or one type of climbing to another can be confusing. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+ (5. Jun 5, 2023 · It’s so easy to get caught up with the grades, but it’s a good idea not to place too much weight on grades while climbing. The 9a [5. 9a to Australian grade is 35 I know it's tough to give a completely grade, since 9a's varies so much, as do boulders. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. How can something be both objective and subjective? It's a bit of a paradox, but we'll unravel it. Routes may feel substantially harder than their grade indicates depending on the weather, the length of the route, the type of rock, the whims of the first ascensionist, any number of factors. The grades range from V0 to V17. Many Olympic-caliber climbers send 9a or harder, but it is rare for climbers who don’t get paid to do it. Dec 12, 2018 · For female climbers, the average top grade is close to 6c+ and 7a is the most frequently recorded top grade. Feb 2, 2025 · One point that they all seem to agree on is how accurate the scoring system translates to the sport climbing grade you (hypothetically) should be strong enough to climb. For example, if you go to the gym in the UK, most of Europe and Asia, you’ll find French climbing grades. It is important to remember that when you are looking at climbing grades, you may consider a grade “easier” or more “difficult” than what it has been graded. Are you ready to climb 9c? Log your points / grade in the comment! Points: 40=9c 39=9b+ 38=9b 37=9b 36=9a+ 35=9a+ 34=9a 33=9a 32=8c+ 31=8c+ 30=8c 29=8c 28=8b+ 27=8b+ 26=8b 25=8b 24=8a+ 23=8a+ 22=8a 21=8a 20=7c+ 19=7c+ 18=7c 17=7c 16=7b+ 15=7b+ 14=7b 13=7b 12=7a+ 11=7a+ 10=7a 9=7a 8=6c+ 7=6c+ 6 Realization was the first route to carry a consensus 9a+ (5. 14d YDS) is the international standard for elite free climbing. In bouldering this would be V13 if you assume 9c and 9A are equivalent grades. Adam Ondra: 9a E12: 16th Feb 2024: This ‘probably safe’ route was one of the hardest things he’s done and if it were bolted he would grade it a 9a. It must be noted, this is an open-ended scale, so there could be harder grades in the future! Are bouldering grades harder than sport climbing grades? It is hard to compare! Even so, as a boulderer, I would lean towards saying, “yes”. 15a) grade, and Climbing called it a "technical revolution" in rock climbing. And also just like the V-scale, a plus or minus sign may be put in front of the grade to more specifically determine it's level, for example: 5b- is an easier problem than simply 5b. 13a YDS) and beyond is considered advanced and 9a (5. 14d] that I did, Perla Východu—Adam climbed it when he was 14 and it could be at least 9a+ [5. 14d : Further Reading: Climbing Grades - An explanation of British climbing grades and comparison with other systems. Use this chart as a rough guide to compare climbing and bouldering grades in other parts of the world. Yes, we know the definitions of subjective and objective. As of June 2023, there are 90 routes graded 9a+/9b or harder, which is pretty crazy considering we got our first taste for 9b+ (Change, Adam Ondra) a little over a decade ago. About this Sports Climbing Grades table: This is a lead climbing grade conversion chart. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17 (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+) for women. Sep 16, 2021 · Currently, the highest bouldering grade is V17 (9A). The current hardest route in a M13 at Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, Canada. This article will cover the most widely recognized scales: the Vermin Scale (V-Scale) and the Fontainebleau Scale (French Scale). Grades can feel pretty mystifying if you're new climbing. May 2, 2023 · Whether you’ve been climbing for ages or just started sending, deciphering climbing grades can be confusing. ” 9a Shawn Raboutou , 6th Apr 2022 Aidan Roberts , Will Bosi , Simon Lorenzi , Jakob Schubert , Sean Bailey Action Directe (French: [aksjɔ̃ diʁɛkt]) is a short 15-metre (49 ft) overhanging sport climb at the limestone Waldkopf crag in Frankenjura, Germany. Apr 27, 2025 · The French scale is commonly used for sport climbing worldwide, using grades like 6a or 9a to indicate route difficulty and is often seen in international competitions. Male climber's average grade is close to 7a+ and 8a is for them the mode grade. Such problems demand unparalleled strength, intricate technical skills, and unwavering psychological resilience. Jan 28, 2022 · Grade II : une demi-journée pour la partie technique. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Nov 3, 2023 · Attaining the 9a climbing grade in the Font scale is a remarkable achievement in the climbing world, representing the most challenging boulder problem that has been established. 2 could easily become a 5. Grades are subjective, so it is a community effort to determine the grade. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. La Corniche de Céüse, located in the Haute-Alpes département of France, is home to this crown jewel of climbing, where legends such as Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos have gone through the test of fire, sweat, and torn skin to The V Scale is similar to the Font Scale in that is uses numbers and letters to grade routes, however there are no pluses. Grade IV : une journée complète d'escalade technique, généralement au moins 5. No, we're not trying to seem all intellectual (okay, maybe a little bit Feb 6, 2016 · A guide to climbing grades and climbing grade systems from around the world. Dec 9, 2024 · Let's talk about climbing grades. 15d). The idea of climbing grades is fairly straightforward, but when applied to bouldering, sport, alpine, ice, trad or mountaineering types of climbing, the grades change according to the local climbing area or international standard. 15a). It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. I think the proposal of 9a is correct Nov 4, 2024 · And because he basically grew up there climbing with Martin Stráník, the grades on the boulders—bar Terranova—are all pretty spot on. Indoors, the route setters will set a route on the climbing wall and then give it a grade they feel is accurate. 7. There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. Just like the V-scale, this grade system is open-ended. Whether you're a beginner deciphering your first 5. 5. Bouldering Grades V-Scale (or Hueco Scale) Aug 24, 2022 · The majority of the data used to fit the parabola is between grades 5 and 9a, with only a few datapoints available beyond 9a. The idea of the Trad Grade is to give a representation of the whole climb, including overall difficulty, how good the trad climbing gear is (or isn’t) and the hardest single move on the route. They're the way climbers objectively measure the difficulty of different climbs. Grades can be subjective and may vary Jun 19, 2024 · ock climbing is a sport that has grown exponentially in popularity over the last few decades, driven by both its physical challenge and the sheer exhilaration Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. What Are Climbing Grades? Two climbing routes at an American climbing gym. 4 in bad weather. Bouldering Grades The Font-grade system is easily confused with the French sport grade and the British E-grade systems as they use similar symbols, however, boulder grades are very different from free climbing grades and they start at much harder technical levels. Interestingly, there are much more females who report 6a, 6b or 6c as peak grade compared to 6a+, 6b+ or 6c+ but we do not find this pattern for men. When it was first climbed by German climber Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, it became the first climb in the world to have a consensus 9a (5. Menu. Ranking Burden of Dreams 9A（V17） ナーレ・フッカタイバル(Nalle Hukkataival)初登のBurden of DreamsはV17とされ、世界最高グレードとされています。 フィンランドの首都ヘルシンキ東方100km地点にあるラップノールで、『ラップノール・プロジェクト』と呼ばれていた課題です。 Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. Download it or screenshot it so you are never without a climbing grade conversion cheat sheet. A 5. From Fred Rouhling to Adam Ondra, climbing has both vilified and lionized its icons. Jun 5, 2023 · Indoor climbing grades tend to follow the same grading system as the country that gym is it. Burden of Dreams is a 4-metre (13 ft) red granite grade 9A (V17) bouldering problem at Lappnor near Loviisa, in Finland. In this part of the article, we’ll convert the North American V-scale to the Yosemite Decimal System as well as the Font scale to the French climbing system. The latter are the aggregate determination of how easy, moderate or difficult a particular climbing route is. Many Olympic-caliber climbers send 9a or harder, but it is rare air among climbers who don’t get paid to do it. It was first climbed by Finnish climber Nalle Hukkataival on 23 October 2016, who spent four years projecting the boulder, [3] and features in the 2017 climbing film, The Lappnor Project. [13] The quality and sustained difficulty of Realization means it is still considered an important rite-of-passage for the world's best rock climbers, whose repeat ascents of the "legendary" route, are Weitere Informationen zu Schwierigkeitsgraden, Bewertungskontexten, pro Land verwendeten Bewertungssystemen, Absicherungsbewertungen, universeller Umrechnung von Schwierigkeitsgraden und zur Zuordnung von Schwierigkeitsgraden zu Routen und Begehungen durch theCrag findest du im Artikel Schwierigkeitsgrade auf theCrag. This more or less agrees with the rule I use: V1 corresponds to 5. Feb 21, 2024 · Pearson subsequently explained his grade reasoning in an essay published in Climbing last December. Then I realized it's telling me I need to practice/rehearse routes more if I'm going to climb at my limit. 14d) grade. The Australian climbing grade scale for technical scrambling and rock routes, another open-ended rating system, runs from 1 (~YDS 3) to 39 (5. Sports climbing grades are graded using different systems across different regions. S. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. Seb Berthe: 9a: 25th Mar 2024 Jan 5, 2023 · しかし2016年、フィンランドのクライマー、ナーレ・フッカタイバルがとうとう地元の岩場で4,000回以上トライを重ねたルートを初登し、「Burden of Dreams（夢の重さ）」 という名を付けました。その際世界最難グレードを更新する9A／V17というグレードを提唱。 Apr 29, 2024 · If so, you’re not alone. The hardest grade currently is the V17 (9a), this is the top end of the sport and it is very rarely achieved. Apr 11, 2025 · Getting to grips with grades. 15b 9b 5. Ceuse, France is legendary for hard sport climbing. 15c/d 9b+ 5. Tips for Using Climbing Grade Conversions. Moreover, the only climbers who can achieve grades higher than 9a are professional athletes, who probably started climbing when they were really young. 11a, and above that there are three V grades for every four YDS letter grades (V4 = 12a, V7 = 13a, V10 = 14a, ). A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. Jun 6, 2023 · Climbing legends have kept pushing the limits, from Wolfgang Gulich to Chris Sharma, yet it’s important to mention that ever since the first 9a was climbed (Action Directe in 1991), the process of reaching the 9c grade was, well, slow. Mar 9, 2022 · Clashes over climbing grades are as old as the sport itself. But the sport routes—my god. Understand the Context: grades are subjective and can vary based on region, climbing style, and even the conditions on the day you climb. Grade VI : Deux jours ou plus d'escalade technique difficile. Just keep in mind that the 9c strength test, or any test for that matter, should not be considered the end-all, be-all of performance profiling for climbing. 1 to 9a+, and download a PDF table for your mobile. (French 9a+). Why is outdoor bouldering so hard? Outdoor bouldering is harder than indoor bouldering because most climbing gyms don’t grade their problems to reflect the difficulty of outdoor problems. Aug 30, 2021 · 9a (5. It is all subjective. 15c 9b+ 5. Learn how to compare different rock climbing grades across five popular systems, including the French, UIAA, YDS, UK and Australian. The British Trad Grade is a compound grade evolved from a climbing ethic strongly biased towards onsight traditional or ‘trad’ climbing. The technical grades are also described as either Bold or Safe. 9a to British UK grade is E10 7c. Additionally, grades can be influenced by outside factors. 9a to YDS grade is 5. If you've arrived at the wall, you'll probably have noticed an assortment of different numbers, letters and/or colours around the start of a rope climbing route or boulder problem, these indicate the grade of the climb, meaning its level of difficulty. The easiest grade is VB which indicates a beginner route, after this only numbers are used. 段級グレード フレンチグレード Vグレード Mar 17, 2023 · Many boulderers also dabble in rope climbing and vice versa. That’s why we created the free climbing grade conversion chart below for all climbing grades for every type of climbing. 12b, the other a grade of 5. グレード比較表： Grades Are Subjective. Climbing grades are a number or number-letter combination designed to correspond to the physical difficulty of a climb. This lead climbing grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from YDS to French and back to French to Yosemite. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. For example, the entry-level Font-grade 4 / V-grade V0 is equivalent to the free climbing grades of There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. Circuits allow a climber to spend more time climbing and less time looking for a climb within a specific grade range in the gym. What boulder grade do you think a 9a route would require you to climb, strength wise. South African rock climbing grades are very similar to Australian, with the exception that the upper end of the scale is currently at 41. Grade V : nécessite généralement une nuit sur l'itinéraire. For the sake of simplicity, let's just imagine the most basic 9a. It felt ridiculous. Apr 20, 2024 · Suggested Grade Date Notes; James Pearson: E12: 10th Jan 2023: After being reluctant to give it a grade, James graded it an E12, the highest E grade. I have a hard time believing that the average climber does 9a/5. 9a French Rock Climbing Grade Conversions. 15a]. Make sure you’re comparing apples to apples! 9a+ 5. The best way to approach the conversion is to travel, go climbing and get used to the different grades! Have fun! P. odrywu rcpbn sbpo rypmi uecd nae kdbkd mfvvxib vqxkmyv psv